Amalfi Coast
Out of all the places I’ve been, I’d say going to the Amalfi Coast was one of the most relaxing locations in Italy I’ve explored thus far. From the endless limoncello and vibrant street shops, to the laid-back boat rides on the gorgeous waters, I was completely at peace. We didn’t have any extravagant plans other than to eat lemon pasta and to hop on the chair lift in Capri. Perusing the cobblestone streets and taking in the views is what the trip was all about. Pure bliss.
Transportation:
There are a few ways you can get around the villages that make up the Amalfi Coast. One route is by bus. In doing our research, it worked out well for us to take the bus on occasion since the apartment we were staying at in Positano was near a local coffee shop that sold tickets.
Be mindful that the buses can become quite crowded since there are not a ton of them, and to be aware of the schedule as well. If you are not a fan of heights, I would recommend sitting towards the back or in an aisle seat since the views can be slightly daunting at times.
Another way to travel between the island of Capri and along the coast, is by boat. There were specific docks that you had to go to for each destination. They have scheduled pick-up and drop off times, so just make sure you arrive at the right docks on time.
My most preferred method to get around has always been walking. That way you can easily stop at any shops along the way. The Amalfi Coast has higher elevation as you go inland, and it descends going towards the water. There are a ton of cobblestone streets, and many small staircase paths in between houses. A lot of the paths were lit as well, which was helpful when exploring the shoreline at night.
Hotels:
We started our trip in the stunning cliffside village of Positano. We used Airbnb to book our seaside apartment for $165 a night. The space had eclectic Italian charm: terracotta tiled flooring, arched windows and doorways, and an outdoor patio balcony overlooking the water. There were two very spacious bedrooms; I took the one with a view of the water. I actually slept most nights with the back door open so I could hear the wind.
The balcony was my favorite feature of this apartment. It was a huge patio with plenty of seating, that overlooked the deep blue waters. There was also a lemon tree!
We were located right across the street from a small drugstore, and a few streets away from a local coffee shop called Bar Internazionale. We spent every morning devouring our fair share of sweet pastries and donuts. This apartment was our first home base on our trip.
2. The second place we ventured out from was Apartment Lavanda in Sorrento. The location was perfect, with a private terrace view overlooking the Gulf of Naples and Sorrento. The walls are decorated in purple hues with white furniture which makes the space bright and airy. The apartment is two levels, which is nice for a bit of separation and privacy as well. Definitely a fresh and clean place to come back to after long days of exploring in the heat.
Food:
Of course, Italy is known for fresh pasta and pizza, but if you go to the Amalfi Coast you must try an entrée made with lemon. The coast is known for its lemon trees and limoncello. Not only are the village streets crowded with shops to taste test the variety of limoncello, they offer truffles and chocolates of all flavors to try as well. There was no limit to the number of samples we were allowed to take. I was definitely able to satisfy my sweet tooth.
The one main course I recommend trying with lemon is in fact a pasta. Our friend Ashley had found this place in Sorrento called Ristorante Fuoro. The fettuccini was light and homemade, and the sauce was the perfect balance of creamy and lemony zing. The portion sizes were perfect, especially since I could’ve eaten a whole boat full.
2. My other favorite meal that I highly recommend is in Capri. In my opinion, Italy has the best pizza crust out of any place I’ve traveled to. Not only do they use the dough to make pizza and calzones, but they actually make panini styled sandwiches with it as well. My favorite sandwich was made with a pizza dough bread, layers of grilled yellow squash and zucchini, marinara, and fresh mozzarella melted in the middle. The crust is warm and crispy and the inside is nice and gooey.
3. Finally, if you are a coffee lover you must try a drink called crema al caffè. It is basically a grown-up coffee milkshake with frozen cream and coffee slushed together. It is energizing, refreshing, and the perfect balance of flavor! (You can find cremespresso at Eataly’s in the US as well.)
Bar Internazionale
Pizza Dough Sandwich
Lemon Pasta Ristorante Fuoro
Attractions:
As I mentioned before, this trip was not completely packed with activities or attractions, but rather was at a more relaxed pace. We knew which towns we wanted to visit, and had a couple restaurants in mind for where we wanted to eat, but the only planned attraction was the Monte Solaro Chairlift in Capri.
If you have a fear of heights, I recommend you conquer those quickly because this is a ride you do not want to miss. The views are breathtaking, and along the route upwards there are tiny little gnome communities in the grass below.
To get on the chairlift everyone takes turns sitting as the chairs continue to cycle through, picking people up and dropping them off on both sides. A bar is placed across your lap and you are on your way. There was no lock or seatbelt for security; just make sure you hold on tightly to your belongings especially when taking pictures or video.
At the top of Monte Solaro, the panoramic views of Italy and the crisp blue waters below are mesmerizing. You can see the Faraglioni rock formations, as well as Mount Vesuvius in the distance. There is a restaurant and bistro at the top as well, where you can grab a refreshing beverage or something to eat.
2. I absolutely loved the chairlift, but being able to have a night on the beach and watch the sunset made me just as happy. One of the beaches we went to in Positano is called Fornillo Beach. It’s known for having a lot less tourists than other beaches in Positano.
The beach itself was pretty quiet, especially in the evening. The air was so crisp and the sea a wonderful turquoise. There is sand on the beach, but closer toward the water it can become quite rocky. I loved collecting the different stones and tiles that had been softened by the water and washed ashore.
Fornillo Beach
The architecture in Europe itself is just as beautiful as the beaches. We did a lot of wandering up and down the village streets in Positano, Capri, and Sorrento. The shops and lemon stands were vibrant and endless, and we came across a few stunning cathedrals as well. One, being the famous Amalfi Cathedral.
Amalfi Cathedral: Duomo di Amalfi
The one thing I took away from going to the Amalfi Coast is to be in the moment. Take the time to look around and wander aimlessly without a specific destination in mind. Enjoy the company you have and the scenery around you. Listen to the traffic and wind and sound of the waves. Eat delicious food without guilt. Don’t be afraid to go off the beaten path.
Honorable Mentions and Other Recommendations:
1. Positano: Grotta dello Smeraldo (Emerald Cave)
2. Near Positano: Walking the Sentiero degli Dei
3. Sorrento: Taking a day trip from here to Pompeii
4. Sorrento: Villa Comunale
5. Capri: Blue, Green, and White Grotto
6. Between Amalfi and Atrani: Torre dello Ziro (Ziro Tower)